Head high to 1-3′ overhead, a touch of sideshore wind and only light texture. Sounded good enough for me, so I made the short trip down to Linda Mar this morning for my first session since moving to San Francisco. Was it my worst day in the water? That’s a tough one - there are [...]

I took the morning off last Monday and went to Wrightsville Beach with King Charles (hereafter, “KC”), a friend and co-worker of my brother’s. It was the first time I’d been in rideable waves with the new Ted Kearns 6′3″; and two short, uncomfortable hours in the water confirmed a few things:

I am woefully out [...]

I drove down to Kill Devil Hills on Saturday to pick up my North Carolina quiver (meaning, the one board I ordered from TK Shapes, a 6′3″ fish hybrid). Ted Kearns, the shaper, turned out to be a great guy, and as it happens, he’s moving in the opposite direction, to the Big Island. Guess [...]

I’m going to try to make it up to Sunset Beach this weekend to see some of the Xcel Pro, a full WQS event. Apart from Jamie O’Brien, I don’t recognize any of the surfers’ names listed in the latest news posting on the official website, but it hardly matters. I’m looking forward to seeing [...]

Actually, it made more of a ‘whump’ sound.
First things first: back in the days of the dotcom boom, there was a far-too-prevalent phenomenon that I’ll refer to as the Timesheet Pissing Contest. It usually went something like this:
Worker A: What’s up, man? You look tired.
Worker B: I pulled an all-nighter last night. You know the [...]

Having recently watched the Pipeline Masters DVD, I’ve realized something about surfing Pipe (or, more accurately, me surfing Pipe): it’s a crack smoker’s delusion. There is no way I’m paddling out there. The underwater shots of the reef alone are enough to keep me on the shore, but after watching guys like Rob Machado, Kelly [...]

Or at least, not a very prolific one. I guess, as one of the two readers of this blog, you’ve figured that out by now. Bear with me, I’m going to try to rectify that.
In the spirit of past grand plans for this site, a redesign is coming, along with a conversion to WordPress (currently [...]

I’ll admit my stoke levels have been dangerously low for the past couple of months, mostly due to this:
http://starbulletin.com/2006/04/06/news/story01.html
But I know people who have been back in the water for a couple of weeks now, and I don’t know anyone who’s still staying home because of the threat of infection. SurfYoda and I made our [...]

So, my apartment flooded yesterday. I wish that was an April Fool’s joke, but sadly, no. It’s not bad, tons of people have it a lot worse than I do, but it was a fun, lengthy cleanup job regardless.
Oahu has passed the biblical milestone of 40 days and nights of daily rain at this point, [...]

Still raining, haven’t been in the water, unfortunately don’t have a lot of time at the moment. However, I said I’d post my research on surfing Pipe to date, so here are four things that you should do before you paddle out, at least that I know of so far:

Swim out with a mask on [...]