First day back in the water after almost a week. I’m officially a Surfline subscriber now, and the report said the surf would be ankle- to knee-high and sloppy. I’m not yet sure what to call sloppy or clean, but there were some fun waves coming through at Ala Moana, and all of the ones [...]

Right, so Galveston finished repairing the dings in my longboard last Wednesday, but before then, I bought a cheap old 6′3″ so I could keep building up my paddling strength. Took it down to Ala Moana last Sunday and paddled out. 1) My arms were cooked the second I got to the lineup. 2) I [...]