LESSON: When trying out a new break, it’s a good idea to gather some information before paddling out. Namely, A) where to paddle out; B) where the waves break; and C) where to paddle in. You can get a buddy to show you the ropes at a new spot, or you can sit and watch [...]

Apparently yesterday’s entry was prophetic. Wednesday session with SurfYoda at In Betweens (behind the Iilikai hotel), beautiful day, plenty of people out but not too crowded. Second wave.

Ride as normal (which is to say, unsteadily) then wipeout when the wave closes out. Fall off board in 3′ of whitewash.
Hit water, flail right leg, feel the [...]

Just removed a sea urchin spine from my heel with an X-Acto knife. I only noticed it because I wear slippers most of the time, and I had my leg crossed. I know enough to know it’s not a good idea to let these things sit - an embedded piece of coral in a healed-over [...]

Not a lot of folks out at Ala Moana Saturday evening, probably because there wasn’t much to surf, and what was on offer was sloppy. Sloppy enough that I would say it’s sloppy, which means really sloppy. Regardless, the lack of crowd worked decidedly in my favor. Most of the time I’m not paddling for [...]